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Slicing / Heirloom Tomato · Indeterminate fruiting

Tomato (Whopper)

Whopper

Summer

Growing stages

What to look for, and what to do, at each point in its life

Park's Whopper is an F1 hybrid indeterminate slicer that goes in after the Mar 28 last frost, climbs and branches all summer with regular sucker management, produces very large 12-14+ oz crack-resistant red fruit within about 65-75 days, and keeps flowering and fruiting until the Nov 12 first frost cuts it down.

  1. 1

    Sowing Seed Indoors

    Late Jan to mid-Feb, about 6-8 weeks before the Mar 28 last frost

    You'll see Seeds are flat, tan-yellow ovals. Within 5-10 days at 70-80F you will see a pale hook-shaped stem push up, followed by two smooth oval seed leaves (cotyledons), not the true ferny-edged tomato leaf yet.

    Do Sow 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix under grow lights kept 2-3 inches above the tray, with gentle bottom heat if the room is cool.

  2. 2

    Seedling and Hardening Off

    Weeks 2-8 after sowing, roughly mid-Feb through late Mar

    You'll see By 4-6 weeks the plant has several sets of true leaves, a sturdy central stem about pencil width, and a compact, bushy look if light has been adequate. Leggy, pale, stretched seedlings signal too little light.

    Do Pot up to a larger container once roots fill the starter cell, and begin hardening off outdoors 7-10 days before transplant.

  3. 3

    Deep Transplanting Into the Bed

    After Mar 28 last frost, once soil has warmed and nights stay above 50F

    You'll see A healthy transplant ready for the ground is 8-12 inches tall with thick stems and 4-6 true leaves; the lower leaves may look slightly yellow if the plant has been in its pot too long, which is fine since they will be buried anyway.

    Do Strip off the lower leaves and bury two-thirds of the stem, either straight down in a deep hole or sideways in a shallow trench, so only the top rosette of leaves shows above soil.

  4. 4

    Establishing and Early Staking

    Weeks 1-3 after transplant, roughly early to mid-Apr

    You'll see New growth at the top of the plant resumes within a week; leaves are deep green and turgor is firm in the morning. Wilting only in the hottest part of the afternoon that recovers by evening is normal, but wilting that persists overnight signals a watering or transplant-shock problem.

    Do Water deeply 2-3 times a week rather than a little every day, and begin tying the main stem loosely to its cage or stake as it grows.

  5. 5

    Vegetative Growth and Sucker Pruning

    Weeks 3-8 after transplant, roughly mid-Apr through late May, and continuing all season

    You'll see The plant sends up new shoots (suckers) from the crotch where each leaf branch meets the main stem. Left alone, every sucker becomes its own leader with its own leaves and flower trusses, quickly turning the vigorous plant into a dense tangle.

    Do Pinch out suckers weekly with your fingers while they are small (under 2-3 inches), keeping the plant trained to 1 or 2 main leaders tied to the stake or cage.

  6. 6

    Flowering and Hand Pollination

    Weeks 6-10 after transplant, roughly late May through June, then continuing in flushes all summer

    You'll see Small yellow star-shaped flowers form in clusters (trusses) along the stem. Each flower has both male and female parts, and pollen sits inside a cone around the pistil until it is shaken loose.

    Do On calm days with little wind or bee activity, gently vibrate each flower truss by hand or with an electric toothbrush for a few seconds to release pollen onto the stigma.

  7. 7

    Fruit Set Through Harvest

    About 65-75 days from transplant to first ripe fruit, then continuing to first frost, roughly June through early Nov

    You'll see Green fruit swells fast into very large, smooth red globes, often 4 inches or more across and 12-14 oz or heavier, among the biggest fruit of any slicer in the garden.

    Do Harvest at first full color and full give when gently squeezed, and keep tying the growing leader to its support since the sheer weight of Whopper fruit can pull branches down.

  8. 8

    Why Whopper Seed Is Not Saved

    Anytime during fruiting, when deciding whether to save seed

    You'll see Ripe Whopper fruit looks large and uniform on the plant you are growing, since it is an F1 hybrid grown from a single cross made by the seed company.

    Do Buy fresh Park's Whopper seed or transplants each season rather than saving seed from your own fruit.

Techniques — transplant, prune, propagate, divide, seed

Sun

Full sun (6–8+ hrs)

Water

1–2" per week in deep soaks (drip). Irregular watering causes blossom-end rot and…

Spacing

24–36" apart, staked or trellised

Feeding

10-10-10 at planting → switch to 5-10-10 (or tomato-specific) at flowering, every 2–3…

Care

  • Prune suckers on indeterminate slicers/heirlooms; remove lower leaves touching the ground.
  • Calcium at planting (crushed eggshells or gypsum) prevents blossom-end rot.
  • 1 tbsp Epsom salt per plant at transplant; repeat at first fruit set (magnesium for chlorophyll + fruit dev).

Harvest

Pick at full color for best flavor. Heirloom surplus freezes well for later jam/Bloody Mary batches.

Watch for

Blossom-end rot (calcium/water), cracking (irregular water), early blight (airflow, water at soil level, copper spray).