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Slicing / Heirloom Tomato · Indeterminate fruiting

Tomato (Cherokee Purple)

Cherokee Purple

Summer

Growing stages

What to look for, and what to do, at each point in its life

Cherokee Purple is a regular-leaf, open-pollinated heirloom indeterminate slicer that goes in after the Mar 28 last frost, climbs and branches all summer with regular sucker management, and over an 80-85 day season delivers dusky purple-red beefsteak fruit with rich, smoky-sweet flavor right up until the Nov 12 first frost cuts it down.

  1. 1

    Sowing Seed Indoors

    Late Jan to mid-Feb, about 6-8 weeks before the Mar 28 last frost

    You'll see Seeds are flat, tan-yellow ovals. Within 5-10 days at 70-80F you will see a pale hook-shaped stem push up, followed by two smooth oval seed leaves (cotyledons), then the true serrated tomato leaf.

    Do Sow 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix under grow lights kept 2-3 inches above the tray, with gentle bottom heat if the room is cool.

  2. 2

    Seedling and Hardening Off

    Weeks 2-8 after sowing, roughly mid-Feb through late Mar

    You'll see By 4-6 weeks the plant has several sets of true leaves, a sturdy central stem about pencil width, and a compact, bushy look if light has been adequate. Leggy, pale, stretched seedlings signal too little light.

    Do Pot up to a larger container once roots fill the starter cell, and begin hardening off outdoors 7-10 days before transplant.

  3. 3

    Deep Transplanting Into the Bed

    After Mar 28 last frost, once soil has warmed and nights stay above 50F

    You'll see A healthy transplant ready for the ground is 8-12 inches tall with thick stems and 4-6 true leaves; the lower leaves may look slightly yellow if the plant has been in its pot too long, which is fine since they will be buried anyway.

    Do Strip off the lower leaves and bury two-thirds of the stem, either straight down in a deep hole or sideways in a shallow trench, so only the top rosette of leaves shows above soil.

  4. 4

    Vegetative Growth and Sucker Pruning

    Weeks 3-8 after transplant, roughly mid-Apr through late May, and continuing all season

    You'll see The plant sends up new shoots (suckers) from the crotch where each leaf branch meets the main stem. Left alone, every sucker becomes its own leader with its own leaves and flower trusses, quickly turning the plant into a dense tangle.

    Do Pinch out suckers weekly with your fingers while they are small (under 2-3 inches), keeping the plant trained to 1 or 2 main leaders tied to the stake or cage.

  5. 5

    Flowering and Hand Pollination

    Weeks 6-10 after transplant, roughly late May through June, then continuing in flushes all summer

    You'll see Small yellow star-shaped flowers form in clusters (trusses) along the stem. Each flower has both male and female parts, and pollen sits inside a cone around the pistil until it is shaken loose.

    Do On calm days with little wind or bee activity, gently vibrate each flower truss by hand or with an electric toothbrush for a few seconds to release pollen onto the stigma.

  6. 6

    Fruit Set Through Harvest

    Roughly 80-85 days from transplant to first ripe fruit, then continuing to first frost, roughly late June through early Nov

    You'll see Green fruit swells over several weeks into a rounded, slightly flattened globe, then ripens unevenly into Cherokee Purple's signature dusky purple-brownish-red, often keeping green shoulders near the stem even when fully ready.

    Do Harvest by feel and by the color at the blossom end rather than waiting for uniform color, since this heirloom rarely turns a solid, even hue; pick at full give when gently squeezed.

  7. 7

    Seed Saving by Wet Fermentation

    Peak season, when the best-looking fruit from your strongest plant is fully ripe, roughly July through Sept

    You'll see A fully ripe, unblemished fruit showing Cherokee Purple's characteristic dusky color is the right pick; the seeds inside sit in a gel sac that must be broken down before drying.

    Do Scoop seeds and gel into a labeled jar with a little water, let it ferment a few days until a mold film forms, then rinse and dry the sunk seeds thoroughly before storing.

Techniques — transplant, prune, propagate, divide, seed

Sun

Full sun (6–8+ hrs)

Water

1–2" per week in deep soaks (drip). Irregular watering causes blossom-end rot and…

Spacing

24–36" apart, staked or trellised

Feeding

10-10-10 at planting → switch to 5-10-10 (or tomato-specific) at flowering, every 2–3…

Care

  • Prune suckers on indeterminate slicers/heirlooms; remove lower leaves touching the ground.
  • Calcium at planting (crushed eggshells or gypsum) prevents blossom-end rot.
  • 1 tbsp Epsom salt per plant at transplant; repeat at first fruit set (magnesium for chlorophyll + fruit dev).

Harvest

Pick at full color for best flavor. Heirloom surplus freezes well for later jam/Bloody Mary batches.

Watch for

Blossom-end rot (calcium/water), cracking (irregular water), early blight (airflow, water at soil level, copper spray).